At the Arctic Circle

At the Arctic Circle

Saturday, July 25, 2015

Chapter 9                                                                                                                25 july 2015
We are staying in Ninilichik, just north of Homer, which is the end of the road on the Kenai peninsula.  We arrived a little early and are having some down time. Taking day trips around the area and looking for birds from here to Homer.  We've eaten out at the local restaurant (one) and the camp host told us of Freddies, up the road apiece.  So one afternoon we thought we'd give it a try.  About 3 miles up the road, the asphalt ends and gravel begins.  Now we follow it about 4 or 5 miles and there are only half a dozen shacks or camps along the road.  I said " If Freddie's is any farther, he won't have enough business or selection of food so I think we should turn around".  Which we did and went back to restaurant #1.  The next day, after lunch, we decided to go birding up the same road and maybe go to the end. This time it was a pleasure trip and after 12 miles, there gets to be a few more camps and a livable house now and then.  At mile 13 from camp, on the top of a high hill, we come to a small settlement with lots of new houses, solar panels and all with a view of the mountains and bay.  And what do we find, Freddie's, serving BBQ, hamburgers and such.  How someone expects to make a living out there in the wilds is beyond me but Freddie is giving it a try.  About another mile and the road did end in a large circular space with 4 or 5 driveways off to other houses or someplace.

I will backup here and talk a little more about Soldotna.  To clarify the part on dip netting for salmon, the resident head of household has a limit of 25 salmon and each additional member has a limit of 10 salmon each.  So a family of 4 can catch a total of 55 for the year.  The season is only 2 weeks and only on the Kenai river near Kenai and Soldotna.  That was why so many Alaskans from Anchorage and the surrounding area were in town.
While visiting Kenai, we met the head of the Audubon birding club and he gave us maps and directions to many sites to see birds in the area and down the road to Homer.  He said that a naturalist may be on board our ship on the ride out to Dutch Harbor.
Wednesday we day tripped it down to Homer to find out what we could on our trip and what to bring and where to park and so forth.  We stopped at the Wildlife refuge for other info and happened to mention our boat ride and asked about the naturalist.  The lady said the naturalist no longer went on the trip but he had made up an itinerary, which she gave us and said "Doug now works here but this is his day off."  "He will be in Thursday and Friday."  So we ate at Cap'n Pattie's and watched a few birds on the bay.  Friday, back we go to Homer to talk with Doug.  He was a wealth of information and said if we didn't take the tour with "Bobbie" at Dutch Harbor we would miss a lot since she took people to places they couldn't  get to go because she was a native and some places were off limits except to natives and, she was a birder too.  So we made our reservations with her and are looking forward to the trip.
The other interesting thing that happened that day was while we were walking down to a restaurant in old Homer, a man was showing this animal hide to a woman and teenager.  We said something like, "look at that".  He immediately says, "Would you like to buy a musk ox rug." From there the conversation went from where he got it to what was he going to do with it.  Apparently,  a friend wanted to get rid of it and gave it to him and he was showing it to his wife and son, when we walked by.  A musk ox rug would be a conversation piece but I'm not sure we needed it at our place.

I added some captions, if you can think of a more appropriate one, leave your comment.
I hope to have a lot to write and pictures, when we return from the Aleutian Islands. We leave Tuesday the 28th.
So as "Arnold of the Terminator" says,  "I'll Be Back.
Steve
"Missed an opportunity of of a lifetime."


"Old Boat's Home"?


 "We can squeeze you in""  or "Economy space for rent" or "Space is a little tight right now."

"Snakes won't get me up here"  or "Summer Igloo"

"Always room for one more"    Homer Harbor where mountains rise from the seas.

"First In, Last Out"   Ninilchik boat harbor

"Magnificent"   near Homer

"She said "I caught them all"    She was in a boat not from the shore.

"Man, this water is cold"

"Drinking water on four wheels"

"Camping in Paradise"

"Top of Hatcher Pass in Palmer"

"Glacier fed brook"

Sunday, July 19, 2015

Chapter 8                                                                                                        18 July 2015

Everybody that goes to Alaska has to see Mt Denali, the tallest mountain in North America.  We are no exception,  so we make our reservation to ride the bus all the way to the end of the road, 92 miles, to a place called Katishna.  Our bus, the economy shuttle, costs $52.50 each and goes the same place as the tour bus.  It's a bright sunny day and we get there early, because 3 years ago when we rode the bus, we were last on and got the seat in the rear.  Not going to do that again, because there was a lot of up and down movement and we're not suited for that travel anymore.  Yes Sir, here we are, second in line with our lunch cooler holding down our place in line.  Other people came and held their spaces accordingly. Then comes this older couple, and HE places his lunch cooler in the very front and into the street.  Everyone looks at him and whispers to one another.  Guess who puts on her mom voice and says, "You need to put your cooler and stuff in the back like everyone else".  To avoid a scene, which I sure would have happened, he picks up his stuff and puts them in the back of the line.  Soon we load up and   here we are in the second seat, by choice, because we didn't want to sit behind the driver.  It was a good trip, got to see grizzly bear, moose, sheep and lots of caribou.  But the biggest and most important was the views of Mt Denali.  There were a few clouds in the morning but by noon it was an unobstructed view.  We were fortunate we went that day because the next week was overcast and drizzly so we spent the next couple of days day tripping and seeing the local area, along with some moose.
On to Palmer then Anchorage, as many locals call it, North Seattle.  Seems like a lot more people and traffic than we had remembered it.  We did important  things there like laundry, washing the truck and trailer and eating out.  We did take a trip up Hatcher Pass near Palmer which went to an old gold mine.  There were nice views from the top and a brook with lots of falls, running beside the road on the way up.  The forest fire was out in the Willow area but burn areas next to the road and I hear they lost 53 houses.
We spent 4 days at a National Forest Campground near Whittier.  It was dry camping, that means no elec, water or sewer, but a nice place.  It did rain all one day, which kept us inside but they needed the rain badly.  On one of our walks there, we spotted a pair of Dippers. Those little guys walk into the water over their head and search for bugs and insects in the gravel bottom. Another life bird for us.
We are now in Soldotna, along with a million other people.  Must be 99% of all Alaskan residents are here fishing for salmon.  Only in this area of the Kenai river, residents are allowed to dip net the salmon for a couple of weeks.  The limit is still 3 fish, but it gives the locals a greater chance of getting a bunch of fish to fill the freezer and reduce their grocery bills.  All the campgrounds are full and parking lots too.  We found a spot for one night, don't know what we will do for tonight, maybe be in a parking lot too, unless this place gets a cancellation again.  Just got back from office, we got two more nights. Yea!
 Cow caribou and calf in the roadway.
 Old Glory next to Mt Denali
 Large bull moose in pond, if they would have let us out of the bus, I could have a better picture.
 Twin calves on a day trip.
 Grizzly on road into Denali
 The edge of road in Denali Park showing guardrails and large boulders to keep you from falling off.
 Looking straight down from bus, sometimes you can't see the edge of the road.  Ellen is on the outside.
Another shot of Mount Denali, with bus route 

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Stay with me while I learn to put the pictures where I want them to go.
I'm trying to add a few older pictures I didn't get into the earlier blogs.


Skyline of Yellowknife, NWT.

Buffalo on end of airstrip in NWT.

Stone sheep on road in Yukon

Airport runway next to road in Yukon.
What a GPS looks like when we were on the ferry.
Chapter 7                                                                                               9 July 2015
Nenana decided in the year 1916 to hold a raffle on the exact minute of ice breakup on the Tanana River.  A tripod was erected in the middle of the river with a rope attached to a clock on shore.  When the ice broke up and moved the tripod down river, the rope pulled away from a clock and stopped it at the exact minute.  Records are kept and published for each year on the day and time of ice out.  Now you will have the opportunity to enter the raffle for 2016 for a mere $2.50.  Tickets are sold from 1 Feb to Apr 5th.  Look it up on www.nenanaiceclassic.com.  Last year the winning time & date had a payout of, take a guess, ……. , nope, more than that,……., more that too, …..  close, but it was $330,330.00.  Right,  almost a third of a million dollars.  The town has paid out over 13 million dollars since it started.  From the total collected, the town finances scholarships, the ice classic event, 4th of July festivities, and other needs. 
We were in Nenana for the 4th’s celebration. They start with a community breakfast, parade, and games for everyone all the rest of the day till 3:00 pm, when they have a dog pulling contest.  Early games were races, kids under 6 ran 20 feet.  The winner gets a dollar, 2nd place fifty cents and everyone else gets a quarter.  Then the winner was out and everyone ran again.  Winner get a dollar, 2nd place fifty cents and everyone else gets a quarter.  This was held in main street and when there were too many kids wide, they split the group.  Then the age group raised to 8 to 10 with the same rewards, and on up to 18 and over.  Then it was sack races, three legged races, egg toss, egg spoon carry, rolling an inner tube, tricycle races, stroller races, and many, many more.  Each time, winner gets a dollar, 2nd place fifty cents and everyone else gets a quarter.   There were constant games for over 3 hours, then there was a huge sawdust/shaving pile in which they buried $200.00 of coins and let the kids age 8 and under dig in it and keep whatever they could find.
  What a wonderful time we had watching all the kids have such a great time.  At 3:00 pm, was the start of the dog pulling contest.  The dogs are weighed and pull against other dogs in their weight class.  The empty sled weighs 500 lbs and with each round of successful pulls, 75 lbs was added to the sled.  Our friend Lucy, had entered 3 of her sled dogs, two ultra lightweight and one lightweight. She had one winner and one second place for a take home payoff of $750.00. 
Tripod and clock tower.

Kids races.

Bag races.


Sawdust/shaving pile.

Digging in pile.

Dog pulling contest.
After the dog pulling, it was the human pulling contest.  Each contestant put on the dog harness and pulls the weight 20 feet, just like the dogs.  I think this was just for bragging rights not for any financial gain.  They had only 2000 lbs of blocks to put in the cart, so they added kids to the top of the blocks till a winner was decided.

I’m going to get this on line with more to come later, meanwhile, stay safe, and enjoy the summer.      Cheers,    Steve

Bears having right of way in Yukon

Legislative building in Yellowknife, NWT

Housing in Yellowknife, NWT


Saturday, July 4, 2015

Chapter 6                                                                                                      3 July 2015
Fairbanks, the northernmost city in Alaska.  People are friendly and very helpful.  Everyone is in a good mood because it’s light all the time.  The sun comes up at 3 am and sets at 1:30 the next morning.  Our friend Lucy was visiting one day and mentioned the city sponsored a midnight solstice sun run.  She asked is I was interested and since I’ve done some walking last winter, I said “sure” figuring I could do 5K without too much problem and she said she wanted to walk, not run.  So on the way to sign up, she mentions it was 10K or 6.2miles.  Well I didn’t want to be a woozy and back out, so I get my number and T-shirt.  Now Lucy is a dog musher and a younger lady in her 60’s so I knew this would be a challenge.  This was also a costume run and I decided to wear a lobster on my shirt, nothing elaborate or splashy.  Lucy made red claws for her hands and a cardboard cutout for the tail and colored it red.  Before the race they had a judging contest on the costumes.  I didn’t enter and Lucy didn’t win. Now this race starts at 10pm and you run/walk a route through the residential sections of town.  There were nearly 3000 runners and we started near the back.  I think it was 3 minutes before we even got to the start line.  The streets were lined with residents giving out water, offering food, spraying everyone with sprinklers, kids using water guns and all cheering us on. We were motoring by a lot of people and must have passed 3 to 4 hundred.  It was a good time for everyone and I did finish 7th in my group of men over 70.  We went home and celebrated with pie and ice cream. 
The fires south of Fairbanks blew smoke into town so bad, visibility was probably less than ½ a mile.  There weren’t many fires up by the Arctic Circle so we head north on 6/23.  The road is better than 3 years ago but still not a race track.  There’s some close smoke and one place fire on both sides of the road but we hurry through.  They didn’t close the road or anything drastic like that.  About 150 miles up the Dalton Highway, also known as Haul Road or Ice Truckers Road, someone has to use the bathroom. Well we’re hauling our bathroom with us, so no problem.  I pull over at a wide spot, also used by another camper, and I go in first, saying “I’ll just be a second.”  When I turn the door knob, it breaks the bolt retraction thingy.  So the door is still latched.  I’m twisting and turning  with no results, when someone says “I’ve got to go pretty bad”.  Now when they built the camper in 98, they installed the doorknob on the wrong side.  The bolt heads were on the inside of the bathroom so there was no way to remove the knob.  I got my screwdriver and pliers and proceeded to rip off the plate and remove the handle.  Next I drilled out the bolts and the inside came out. The latch was still secure in the strike plate in the wall.  Someone is squirming and suggesting I hurry up.  She couldn’t use the bushes because there weren’t many and the other camper was still in the turnout.  In all it took about ½ an hour before I got the latch out and the door opened.  She sure was happy.  Now we have a rather large peephole in the bathroom.
Got to the circle, did the picture thing and on up the road 60 miles to Coldfoot.  Camped at a BLM campground 10 miles north for $4.00 a night and back to Coldfoot for dinner.  Coldfoot has a population of 16 people.  It has a gas station, lodging, post office, generating plant, and a restaurant.  The food was a buffet for $28.00 each but was wonderful.  Gourmet all the way.  We sat out on the deck because it was cooler, it had reached 90 that day.  Amazingly we had no bugs, but we did have gray jays land on the table wanting to steal food. 
The next day we drove only the truck north another 100 miles, over the Brooks Range, Atigan Pass, and up to Gilbrath Lake.  A nice trip, but not much for wildlife.  Did get a couple new life birds, Hoary Redpoll and Long-tailed Jaeger. 
The following day, we drove to Wiseman.  Population 16, but the ranger thought is was now only 12.  Apparently some family thought Wiseman was getting a little remote.  It’s about the same as last time except the public phone now has a new location.  It was removed from the tree and put in a little1x2 foot, 3 sided phone booth still attached to a tree and is now a nice princess phone.  I’m sure you can only still call Coldfoot.
We returned to Fairbanks, the smoke has cleared up, rested, did laundry and ate out a lot.  We then drove south 60 miles to Nenana, pop 400, for big doings on the 4th.  But that will have to wait for another time.

Cheers and enjoy the 4th and fireworks.  They wait until Christmas for fireworks here since the sun is still out till after midnight.       Steve
                                            At the starting line of 10K race

                                             The back view
                                       At the circle on the Dalton Road
       On top of Atigan Pass in the Brooks Range, 100 miles above the circle
      2 old prospectors in Chicken, Alaska
Pipeline, Tundra and Brooks Range, north of Atigan Pass